శ్రీనగర్ బస్ స్టాండ్ చేరేటప్పటికి సాయంత్రం అయింది. నేను శ్రీనగర్ రావడం ఇదే మొదటిసారి. ఒక ఆటో డ్రైవర్ ని దగ్గరలో ఏదైనా హోటల్ ఉందా అని అడిగా ఆటో వాడు నన్ను జహంగీర్ హోటల్ కు తీసుకువెళ్లాడు. నేను శ్రీనగర్ లో చేయవలసిన రెండు పనులు ఉన్నాయి మర్నాటి ఉదయం తొందరగా నిద్ర లేచాను. హోటల్ నగరం మధ్యన ఉన్నట్టుంది. ట్రాఫిక్ శబ్దాలు పెద్దగా వినిపిస్తున్నాయి. కిటికీ పరదాలు పక్కకు తప్పించి చూశాను. ఫ్లై ఓవర్ మీద పరిగెడుతున్న వాహనాలు కనిపించాయి. వీధిలో పిల్లలను బడికి లాక్కెళ్తున్న తల్లులు కనిపించారు. నాకు చిన్నతనం గుర్తుకు వచ్చింది. ప్రతిరోజు అమ్మ కూడా నన్ను ఇలాగే లాక్కుపోయేది.
హోటల్ నుంచి బయటకు వచ్చి కనపడ్డ ఓ వ్యక్తిని హబ్బాకడల్,సఫాకడల్ అనే చోట్లకి వెళ్లడానికి బస్సు స్టాప్ ఎక్కడుందని అడిగాను. కొద్ది దూరంలో ఉన్న చౌరస్తాని చూపుతూ అక్కడ మీకు కావలసిన బస్సు వస్తుందని చెప్పాడు. బస్సులో సీటు దొరికింది. నా పక్కనే కూర్చున్న వ్యక్తి సెల్ ఫోన్ లో ఎవరికో తను డౌన్ టౌన్ కి వెళ్తున్నానని చెప్తున్నాడు. బహుశా నగరంలో అది ఒక వీధి అయి ఉండవచ్చు అనుకున్నాను. కండక్టర్ సఫ్ఫా కడల్ అని బిగ్గరగా అరవడంతో బస్సు దిగాను. ఎదురుగా ఒక బ్రిడ్జి కనిపించింది బ్రిడ్జి దాటుతూ ఓ పక్కకు నిలబడి క్రిందికి తొంగి చూశాను. క్రింద పారుతున్న నది వైయత్ అయివుండాలనుకున్నాను అదే మాట పైకి అనేశాను. నాకు కొద్ది దూరంలో సూటు బూటుతో నిలబడిఉన్న వ్యక్తి’ ఏమన్నారు?’ అన్నాడు. మళ్ళీ తనే, ‘అది జీలం నది’ అన్నాడు. ” మీకు అది జీలం అయి ఉండవచ్చు కానీ నాకు మాత్రం వయతే” అన్నాను.
నది ఒడ్డున చాలా దూరం దాకా చుక్కల్లా కనబడుతున్న ఆలయాలు, మందిరాలు చూశాను. దగ్గర్లోనే ఓ గుడి ఉండాలి.గుడిలో దేవుని దర్శనం చేసుకుని పోవచ్చు కదా అనిపించింది. అందువల్ల నేను చేయబోతున్న పని సానుకూలం అవుతుందేమోనని కూడా అనిపించి, బ్రిడ్జి దాటి కుడి వైపు తిరిగి నడక సాగించాను. ఎదురుగా ముందుకు పొడుచుకువచ్చిన బాల్కనీలతో ఆకట్టుకునే ఒక భవనం కనిపించింది. ఆవరణలో ఒక పెద్ద మల్బరీ చెట్టు ఉంది దాన్ని చూస్తూ నిలబడిపోయాను ఇప్పుడు అందులో నివసిస్తున్నది మాత్రం ఇదివరకటి మనుషులు కాదు.
గుడి ముందుకు వచ్చాను తలవంచి కళ్ళు మూసుకున్నాను. నేను ఎవరిని, ఎక్కడికి వెళ్తున్నాను అన్న విషయం కాసేపు మరిచిపోయాను. ఏ శక్తో నన్ను ముందుకు తోస్తే పాదాలు కదిలాయి. గుడి పక్కనే మరొక ఇల్లు ఉంది. ప్రహరీ గోడ చాలా మటుకు కూలిపోయింది. తలుపులు కిటికీలు ఉండాల్సిన చోట ఖాళీ స్థలం ఉంది. విరిగిపోవడానికి సిద్ధంగా ఉన్న రెండు రెక్కల ప్రధాన ద్వారానికి ముందు వరండా ఉంది. వరండాలో వీధి కుక్కల గుంపు విశ్రాంతి తీసుకుంటున్నది. కాంపౌండ్ లోపల ఒక పెద్ద వాల్నట్ చెట్టు నిలబడి ఉంది. శిథిలమైన ఆ ఇల్లు తన విషాద గాధను వినిపిస్తున్నట్టు అనిపించింది. దాన్ని ఈ స్థితికి తెచ్చినది ఎవరో నేను చెప్పను. నోరు విప్పడానికి సాహసించను.
నా కుడి వైపున నదిలోకి దిగడానికి మెట్లు ఉన్నాయి . ఒడ్డున నదిని దాటడానికి పడవలు ఉన్నాయి . నాకు మరికొన్ని కూలిన గోడల ఇళ్ళు, విరిగిన తలుపులు కిటికీల ఇళ్ళు, ధూళి నిండిన కాలిపోయిన ఇళ్ళు, సాలెగూళ్ళు వేలాడుతున్న ఇళ్ళు కనిపించాయి. ఇళ్ళ ఆవరణలు అడ్డదిడ్డంగా పెరిగిన పిచ్చి మొక్కలతో నిండి ఉన్నాయి. కొన్నిచోట్ల చినార్ చెట్లు కూడా కనిపించాయి. మొత్తానికి చాలా ఇళ్ల ప్రహరీ లలో ఋతువు రాకుండానే ఆకురాలు కాలం వచ్చేసినట్టు కనిపించింది. బొమ్మలా నిలబడి చూస్తూ ఉండిపోయాను. నాకు ఆ రోజు శుక్రవారం అని గుర్తొచ్చింది. చెల్లి నేను శుక్రవారం నాడే పుట్టాం.అమ్మ చెప్పేది ముస్లింలు శుక్రవారం నాడు పసుపు అన్నం చేస్తారని. రోడ్డు మలుపులో ఒక మహిళ పసుపు అన్నపు పళ్ళెంతో కనిపించింది. పిల్లలు ఆమె చుట్టూ గుమిగూడారు. ఆమె నన్ను పిలిచింది.నేను ముందుకు నడిచి చేయిచాచి పసుపు అన్నం తీసుకున్నాను. అది నా ఆకలిని కొంతవరకు తీర్చగలిగింది.
ఇక్కడి నుంచి మరికొన్ని అడుగుల దూరం నడిచి నేను షర్ఫుద్దీన్ అబ్దుల్ రహమాన్ అలియాస్ బుల్బుల్ షా మజార్ ముందుకు వచ్చి నిలబడ్డాను. అది కూడా వైయత్ నది ఒడ్డునే ఉన్నది.ఇరుకు సందుల్లో నడుస్తున్న నాకు పైన వేలాడ కట్టిన తోరణాలు కనిపించాయి. అవి నన్ను స్వాగతిస్తున్నవని అనిపించింది. ఎన్నో ఏళ్ల నుంచి నాకోసం ఎదురుచూస్తున్నవని కూడా అనిపించింది. ఫెరాన్ ధరించిన కొందరు దుకాణాలలో కూర్చుని హుక్కా పీలుస్తున్నారు. ఆడవాళ్లు తలల మీద ముసుగులతో నడిచి వెళుతున్నారు.ఉన్నట్టుండి ఒక వాసన నా ముక్కుపుటాలకు గట్టిగా తాకింది. అది ఒక బేకరీలో కాల్చి బయటకు తీసిన తాజా బ్రెడ్ నుంచి వచ్చింది. పైన కరెంటు తీగల మీద పావురాలు చప్పుడు చేస్తుంటే అడుగు అడుగుకు ఆగిపోయి కనిపించే దృశ్యాలని చూస్తూ మనసు నిండా బాధని నింపుకుంటున్న నేను దారి తప్పిపోయాను. ఎక్కడున్నానా అని వెనక్కి తిరిగి చూస్తుంటే ఒక పాల దుకాణం కనిపించింది.
దుకాణంలో ఉన్న వ్యక్తిని” ఇది ఏ బజారు” అని అడిగాను. అతను “ఇది డౌన్ టౌన్” అన్నాడు కానీ నాకు తెలిసి ఒకప్పుడు అది షహరికాస్.ఇప్పుడు” నేను ఎక్కడ ఉన్నాను? ” అని అడిగాను. పాలశాపతను మీరు షాహి -ఏ -హందన్ మసీదు దగ్గర ఉన్నారు అన్నాడు. ఎటువైపు వెళ్ళాలా అని ఆలోచిస్తుంటే షాపు వాడు
” ఎక్కడికి వెళ్తున్నావు బిడ్డా? ” అన్నాడు.
నేను హబ్బా కడల్ , సఫా కడల్ లకు వెళ్లాల్సి ఉంది కానీ దారి తప్పినట్టు ఉన్నాను” అన్నాను.
“ఫరవాలేదు. మీరు హబ్బా కడల్ కు దగ్గరలోనే ఉన్నారు. రండి కాసేపు దుకాణంలో కూర్చుని విశ్రాంతి తీసుకుని పొండి” అన్నాడు.
నేను తటపటాయిస్తూ షాపులోకి వెళ్లి కూర్చున్నాను. కాసేపయ్యాక ఆయన గిన్నెలో నుంచి చెంచాతో పెరుగు తీసి నా చేతిలో పెట్టాడు. నాకు ఆశ్చర్యం వేసింది. బహుశా ఇది వాళ్ళ ఆచారమేమో అనుకున్నా.
తర్వాత “ఈ ఎదురుగ్గా ఉన్న రోడ్డులో తిన్నగా వెళితే చౌరస్తా వస్తుంది, అది దాటి అలాగే కొంత దూరం వెళ్తే హబ్బాకడల్ చేరుతారు” అన్నాడు. ఆ మాట విని నేను దగ్గరలోనే ఉన్నానని స్థిమితపడి షాపులో నుంచి బయటకు వచ్చాను.
మళ్లీ నడక మొదలుపెట్టిన నాకు గతంలో జరిగిన సంఘటనలు గుర్తుకు రాసాగాయి. దుకాణం యజమాని చెప్పిన దారి వెంట నడిచి హబ్బాకడల్ చేరుకున్నాను. నాన్న మాటలు గుర్తుకు వచ్చాయి. అక్కడ పబ్లిక్ ట్యాప్ ఉన్న సందులో ఎడమ వైపు ఉండేది ఒకప్పటి మా ఇల్లు. అది సరిగ్గా నాన్న చెప్పిన చోటే ఉన్నది.ఆ ఇంటి వైపు కదిలాను. నా కాళ్లు సీసపు కాళ్లల్లా బరువెక్కాయ్. ముందుకు నడవడం భారంగా మారింది ఇంటికి రెండు తలుపుల ద్వారం ఉంది. దానికి ఒక పెద్ద రింగ్ వేలాడుతున్నది. ఇంటి ముందు స్థలంలో రెండు దానిమ్మ చెట్లున్నవి . బయట గోడ పూర్తిగా కూలిపోయింది. ఊడిపోయిన కిటికీలు గోడకు వదులుగా వేలాడుతున్నవి. అలా చూస్తూ నిలబడి పోయిన నన్ను, ఇంటి గోడలు కదిలి వచ్చి గాఢంగా కౌగిలించుకున్నట్టు అనిపించింది. ఒక దురదృష్టకరమైన అర్ధరాత్రి ఇక్కడి నుంచి పారిపోతూ మా కుటుంబ సభ్యులు చేసిన అర్తనాదాలు నా చెవుల్లో ప్రతిధ్వనించాయి.
‘ మీరు మీ ఇంటికి తిరిగి రండి. కనిపిస్తున్నదిగా నా ఈ దీనస్థితి. కనీసం నిలబడ లేకుండా ఉన్నాను. అవమాన భారంతో తలదించుకొని ఉన్న నన్ను తల ఎత్తుకునేట్టు చేయండి.రండి!’అని ఆ పరిసరాలు అంటున్నట్టు అనిపించింది.
రాతితో కట్టబడిన వరండాలో అమ్మమ్మ కూర్చుని ఉన్న దృశ్యం కనిపించింది. ఆమె తన ముందున్న కూరనుండి పండిన ఆకులను వేరు చేస్తున్నది. ఆ పక్కనే నిలబడి మా అమ్మ నన్ను ఎత్తుకొని పాట పాడుతున్నది. నాన్న పిలుస్తున్నా వినిపించుకోకుండా అన్నయ్య దానిమ్మ చెట్టు కింద దాక్కుని ఉన్నాడు. ప్రహరీ గోడ అవతలి వైపు నిలబడి ఉన్న చాచీ “తులసి వంట అయిందా?” అని అడుగుతున్నది.
హఠాత్తుగా ఓ చెయ్యి నా భుజం మీద పడింది. ఆలోచనల నుంచి బయటకు వచ్చాను. నా వెనుక నిలబడి ఉన్న ఆయన
” ఎవరు నువ్వు? ఇక్కడ ఏం చేస్తున్నావ్? అన్నాడు.
” నేను మోతిలాల్ మనవడిని. ఆయన మా అమ్మకు తండ్రి” అన్నాను.
ఆ వ్యక్తి కళ్ళనిండా నీళ్లతో నన్ను దగ్గరికి లాక్కుని ఆప్యాయంగా కౌగిలించుకున్నాడు.
” మీరంతా వెళ్ళిపోయాక హబ్బా కడల్ కళా విహీనం అయిపోయింది” అన్నాడు.
ఆయన నన్ను తన ఇంటికి తీసుకుపోయి
” ఎవరో గుర్తుపట్టారా? సునీల్ కొడుకు” అని చెప్పాడు ఇంట్లో వాళ్లంతా నా చుట్టూ మూగారు. కొందరు పెద్దగా రోదించారు. కొందరు ఇప్పుడు మా కుటుంబం గురించి చెప్పమన్నారు. నాకోసం బియ్యపు పిండి రొట్టెలు, ఉప్పుటీ తెచ్చారు. నేను రెండు రొట్టెలు తిన్నాను. ఇంట్లో వాళ్ళు నన్ను అక్కడ రెండు రోజులు ఉండి పొమ్మన్నారు నేను సఫా కడల్ కు వెళ్లాల్సి ఉందన్నాను. నేను ఏది చూడాలని వచ్చానో దాన్ని చూశాను ఇంకా ఇక్కడ ఉండి చూస్తే నేను నేను కాకుండా పోతాను అనుకున్నాను.
పెద్దాయన కొడుకు గ్యారేజ్ నుంచి స్కూటర్ బయటకు తీశాడు. సఫాకడల్ లోఎక్కడికి వెళ్లాలని అడిగాడు. నేను దారెసలామ్ సందు అన్నా. అతను నన్ను అక్కడ దించి వెళ్ళాడు. అమ్మ చెప్పింది ఆ సందులో ఎడమవైపు మూడవ ఇల్లని. ఆ ఇంటి ముందు నిలబడి తలుపు తట్టాను. ఒక మహిళ బయటకు వచ్చింది.
“మాస్టర్ జీ ఉండేది ఇక్కడే కదా!” అడిగాను.
” వాళ్లు ఇక్కడ లేరు. పధ్నాలుగు ఏళ్ల కిందటే ఈ ఇల్లు వదిలి వెళ్ళిపోయారు. ఇప్పుడు ఇది మా ఇల్లు” అందామె.
నా ఆశలు పేకమేడల్లా కుప్ప కూలిపోయాయి. ఆమె నన్ను లోపలికి రమ్మంది కానీ నేను నిలబడ్డ చోటే మంచు బొమ్మనైపోయాను. వాళ్ళను కలుసుకోవడం ఎలా అనుకుంటూ అడిగాను
” మాస్టర్జీ అడ్రసు ఏమైనా ఉందా? ఇప్పుడు ఎక్కడున్నారో తెలుసా ?
“తెలీదు తెలిస్తే తప్పకుండా చెప్పేదాన్ని వాళ్ళని ఎందుకు కలుసుకోవాలనుకుంటున్నారు?” అని అడిగింది.
విషయం చెప్పక తప్పలేదు. 1986 ఫిబ్రవరి నెల లాస్ట్ డేట్.లాల్ డెడ్ ఆసుపత్రిలో 12వ వార్డులో మా అనుబంధం ఏర్పడింది. మా అమ్మ మంచం నెంబర్ 201.ఆ పక్కనే ఉన్న 202 మంచం మీద మాస్టర్ జీ భార్య కూడా ఉన్నది. మా అమ్మ నన్ను ప్రసవించిన వెంటనే ఏదో జబ్బుకు గురైంది.మాస్టర్జీ భార్య ఒక ఆడపిల్లను ప్రసవించింది. అస్వస్థత కారణంగా అమ్మ నాకు పాలు ఇవ్వలేకపోయింది. మాస్టర్జీ భార్య రెండు రోజులపాటు నాకు పాలిచ్చింది. అప్పటినుంచి ఆమె కూతురు నాకు చెల్లి అయింది. నేను మధ్యాహ్నం రెండు గంటలకు పుట్టాను. చెల్లి సాయంత్రం ఎనిమిదిన్నరకు పుట్టింది అని వివరంగా చెప్పాను.
” అయితే ఇప్పుడు మాస్టర్జీని, నీకు పాలు ఇచ్చిన తల్లిని కలవడానికి వచ్చావన్నమాట” అందామె.
” ఇప్పుడు నాకు చెల్లి అవసరం ఎంతో ఉన్నది అన్నాను దీనంగా”
అది ఎందుకో కూడా చెప్పాను.
“వచ్చే నెల నా పెళ్లి నిశ్చయమైంది. అన్నయ్య పెళ్లిలో చెల్లి ఉండి తీరాలి. అది మా ఆచారం. నా పెంపుడు తల్లి కోసం నా చెల్లి కోసం వెతుక్కుంటూ వచ్చాను. వారిని చూడాలని నా మనసు ఆరాటపడుతున్నది”అన్నాను.
” మరి ఇంతకాలం?ఇన్ని సంవత్సరాల నుంచి వాళ్ల గురించి ఆలోచించనే లేదా? ” అందామె.
“మేము ఇక్కడ మా సర్వస్వాన్ని కోల్పోయాం. ముఖ్యంగా మా ఉనికినే కోల్పోయాం. ఇల్లు కోల్పోతే తిరిగి కట్టుకోవచ్చు కానీ అయిన వాళ్ళని కోల్పోవడం తట్టుకోలేని విషయం.ప్రతి రాఖీ పండుగ నాడు చెల్లి గుర్తొచ్చేది. తనకు నేను గుర్తున్నానో లేదో తెలియదు. కానీ ఆమె ముఖ్యంగా తన చేతులకు గోరింటాకు పెట్టుకునే నాడైనా నేను గుర్తుకొస్తాను” అన్నాను వణుకుతున్న కంఠంతో. కన్నీటిని ఆపుకుంటూ చివరగా
” మీరు ఆమెను ఎప్పుడైనా చూడటం జరిగితే ఈ అన్నయ్య తనకోసం వెతుకుతున్నాడని, ఆమెను చూడటానికి తపిస్తున్నాడని చెప్పండి” అంటూ అక్కడ నుంచి కదిలాను.
ధీబా నజీర్ కాశ్మీరీ రచయిత్రి. శ్రీనగర్ కు చెందిన ధీబా నజీర్ 17వ శతాబ్దపు మార్మిక కవయిత్రి. రూపా భవాని యొక్క శైవతత్వం, సూఫీతత్వాలపై ఈమె చేసిన పరిశోధన కాశ్మీరీ సాహిత్యకారుల ప్రశంసలు పొందింది. ఆమె తను కాశ్మీరీ భాషలో రాసిన సాహిత్యాన్ని ఉర్దూలోకి కూడా అనువదించింది. గుల్ బకావలి దాస్తాన్, కూలియాత్ అబ్దుల్ అహద్ ఆజాద్, కూలియాత్ రూప భవాని ఆమె రచనలు. ధీబా నజీర్ కథాసంపుటి ‘జరీన్ జఖం ‘ కు కేంద్ర సాహిత్య అకాడమీ యువ పురస్కారాన్నిఅందించింది. జరీన్ జఖం (మెరిసే గాయాలు )లోని ఒక కథ ఈ ‘అన్వేషణ’ కశ్మీరీ భాషలో Tchaandaww
ఈ కథలో తమ సర్వస్వం వదిలి వలస వెళ్లిన ఒక కుటుంబ గాథ. ఒకే ఆసుపత్రిలో కొన్ని గంటల తేడాతో వేరు వేరు తల్లులకు జన్మించిన వారి అన్నా చెల్లెళ్ళ అనుబంధం ఎంతో హృద్యంగా చిత్రించబడింది. ఒక ముస్లిం రచయిత్రి తను ఒక హిందూ సోదరునిగా ప్రథమ పురుషలో ఈ కథ చెప్పడం విశేషం. కథలో వచ్చిన ఫెరాన్ అనే పదానికి కాశ్మీరీ కుర్తా అని కడల్ కు వంతెన అని అర్థం.

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